Anyone who did not have time to prune fruit trees in the garden in the fall should try to do it next spring.
In order not to waste time on trifles, it is advisable to prepare a work schedule before that time, which will help to avoid mistakes and untimely pruning of fruit trees and increase the yield.
Remember that the maximum volume of material removed should not exceed 1/3 or 1/4 of the crown, otherwise the tree will not avoid stress.
Apricot
Regular formative pruning is necessary, otherwise the tree will become depleted during abundant harvests. Pruning is carried out in March and the first ten days of April. Light rejuvenating pruning is allowed in June-July.
Quince
In the first year, the branches are not shortened so as not to remove the fruit buds. Only the basal shoots are removed to thin out the bush. In March, sanitary and formative pruning is carried out.
Cherry plum
This tree does not like pruning, especially in summer. In March-April, you can shorten the shoots, and that will be enough.
Cherry and sweet cherry
Without pruning, these trees will become overgrown beyond recognition. You can do this work from spring to autumn, but only competently. Remove diseased, old, incorrectly formed and short shoots. In autumn, limit yourself to sanitary pruning.
Pear
Pear is pruned in March and early April, and also in autumn – sanitary procedures. In summer, work on shortening young shoots is allowed.
Peach
They prune with the mark "mandatory" and "regularly". Basically, they thin out the crown, shorten the shoots, remove fruiting and immature shoots. In the spring, they do crown formation. In the fall, they do sanitary work.
Plum
This tree is pruned in spring and autumn; light sanitary pruning is allowed in summer.
Apple
This is the only tree that does not react to the lack of pruning as critically as all the others. However, the dense crown provokes the development of diseases and the appearance of pests. At the same time, the apple tree tolerates any type of pruning, including winter.
